Having problems with your Westinghouse LCM-19v5 Monitor ?
Westinghouse lcm 19v5 won't power on period
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\015 My monitor will now power on period and it will not even recognize a signal from the computer. There is absolutely no power\015
\015\012The 19v5 is probably almost the same, so maybe this will help.....
\015\012If you know how to solder, or know someone who does, you may be able to fix the whole thing in an hour or two.
\015\012I replaced 5 capacitors in mine ($7.86 for all from Radio Shack), and I am now using it to write this.
\015\0121 - Put the screen face down on a nice soft relatively flat surface (carpet or bed will work fine) and crack off the back plastic piece (I literally cracked it, as 2 of 4 plastic "claws" broke). It turns out that there is a trick. I think that pushing in really hard from the sides AND pulling at the same time might get it off cleanly.
\015\0122 - Remove the (now obvious, after removing the plastic cover) 4 screws that hold the stand onto the unit
\015\0123 - Remove the 3 screws that hold the main plastic back of the screen on. After that, it's a matter of careful prying. Remove plastic cover.
\015\0124 - The power supply cover is now in view. It is held on by a crafty arrangement of screws and those hex screws that the monitor cables plug into, plus two regular screws for the power supply cable.
\015\0125 - four small double wires go into the power supply cover from two adjacent sides. Pull these out - there is no trick, just pull. Mark these with a sharpie to make sure that upon reinstallation, they go into the right sockets and right side up.
\015\0125a - You can now slide the cover up and off and remove the power supply board (the one the power cable goes into). 4 screws hold that on, and you have to sort of pull it off sideways and jiggle, as it mates with another board. Be careful - there is one relatively big cap on the power supply board, and you don't want to shock yourself. Short it with something metal to discharge, or at least don't work on your screen RIGHT after unplugging it from wall power. Mine had been off for a couple of weeks, and the big cap registered nothing when I checked it with my voltmeter.
\015\0126 - for me, on the 20v5, I looked for capacitors that had "swelled" tops. I saw 5 that were swelled upwards. Caps are supposed to be flat on top - swelling means that they are messed up or close to death. The deceased/suspect capacitors were 2 1000uF and 3 220uF radial-type, all 25V max.
\015\0127 - ripshack has these in stock, but they have 35V max ones. If anything, replacing the 25V ones with 35V ones is a good idea, as the old ones couldn't handle the job. Unfortunately, 35V ones are bigger in size. It required a bit of shoehorning, but the larger ones fit. I had to solder one about 1/4" off the board and bend it over a bit to make room for one of the other ones that I was replacing.
\015\0128 - solder very carefully, it's tight in there. Work the old cap out side to side, melting the solder joint, pulling, going to the other side, etc. Put the new one in (with the polarity CORRECT) - white stripe on side of cap is "-", other side is "+". You should see the "+" sign written on the circuit board, too, but just pay attention ahead of time - it's easier.
\015\0129 - Make sure that all caps are close enough to the circuit board that they do not go above (heightwise) the larger caps that HAVEN'T failed. Otherwise, you won't be able to get the power supply cover back on.
\015\01210 - slap everything back together and power up! If it doesn't work, then you blew $8. Big deal.
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