Having problems with your Toshiba Satellite A75-S211 Notebook ?
How do you open this laptop? I removed all the
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\015 How do you open this laptop? I removed all the screws but it will not come apart 100%. I can open it 75% of the way but the part around the power switch will not come apart. I am trying to fix the adapter jack but I must fully open the laptop to accomplish this.\015
There are other soft parts, (Plastic cover parts), and cables, plus components that must be removed, before you can remove the System Board. (Motherboard)
Tips from me:
1) Laptop turned over, remove all screws from the bottom. 14 around the outside edge. One in top right corner of Harddrive compartment. It's down in there fairly deep.
Sometimes this screw is missed.
3 screws in the middle. (Shape is like a right triangle for their location)
2) Removing the securing strip. (Below LCD screen, and above Keyboard)
I advise using a stiff plastic letter opener, or similar tool. Start at the right side where the edge of the securing strip meets the Top Panel. (Right above the Print Screen key)
Work the outside edge up a little, until you can slide a tool under it to hold it up, just enough to get the tip of your finger under.
(Warning. DO NOT go too deep with this tool! Half the length of a fingernail is all you need! You can damage the LCD cable)
Work the plastic letter opener under the front edge, (Next to Keyboard), gently holding the securing strip up as you go along.
The strip will pop-pop-pop, as it comes up, and out. (Remember about the above statement as to the depth of the tool)
3) The keyboard is held in place by 2 screws. However, Do Not yank it up, and out. There is a small cable that comes from the System Board, (motherboard), to the Keyboard.
The connector is a Pressure Plate connector. It has to be unlocked before you can disconnect the Keyboard. There are two tabs. One on either side of the pressure plate. Lift the tabs Up, slide the cable out.
Here is the Maintenance Manual, for the Toshiba Satellite A70 series laptops,
Scroll down to the second Satellite listing. (Starts with Satellite A10)
Scroll across until you see A70, then Left-click on it.
(The Satellite A75 is one of the A70 Series)
This is a PDF file download, and you may not see anything happening for up to thirty seconds.
(Took me 22) The PDF file is downloading in the background, please wait.
Replacement Procedures starts on Page 94, with Page 99 showing a logical flow chart for removal of FRU's.
If you have questions regarding disassembling, post them in a comment.
Advise: (Disregard the below information if you already know this)
Preliminary Replacement Procedures for removing FRU's first, then go to disassembling the laptop.
(FRU. Field Replaceable Unit)
1.Remove all electrical sources before you begin.
AC adapter, (Charger), and battery.
2.Always wear an ESD wrist s-trap. Have the alligator clip connected to a good ground source.
(Electro Static Discharge)
The average cost is $6, and available in a multitude of places.
(Your body carries Static electricity. Static, will fry out the delicate computer hardware components in your computer, in a Flash!
The ESD wrist s-trap, has a thin plate of metal that contacts the skin of your wrist. This plate in turn connects to a cable, which connects to an alligator clip.
The clip is connected to a good ground source. I use the metal frame of an empty desktop computer case. (I disagree with having my ESD wrist s-trap connected to an anti-static mat)
Work on a table, and if you have a carpeted floor, refrain from swinging your feet across it. Do Not work on a bed, or directly on a carpet floor. These are high areas of Static.
3.Use a multi-compartment container for the screws you remove. Label each compartment, for the area the screws were removed from.
There are 60 screws, and 22 different types. (Threads and size)
4.You may want to make a digital record, with a digital camera, if available. Should you become interrupted along the way, you have a photo record to refer to.
5.Advise using a 40-Watt iron with a No.2 tip, or a soldering station.
Too much heat, or lingering too long, and you can lift a circuit trace right off of the system board. (Motherboard)
Too much heat, can also render the area around the solder terminal point useless, so that it can't be tinned again. (Hole in the copper circuit trace. The area around the hole)
I advise using soldering braid, ('Solder Wick'), instead of a de-soldering tool. (Solder s-ucker) Works much better.
I find that applying constant pressure under the jack with the tip of my finger, and thumb, while heating One lead at a time, works best.
Heat one lead, lift the lead out a very small amount. Now go to the adjacent lead, and do the same.
Keep heating in intervals, and slowly pull the leads out, until one by one, they come all the way out, and the jack is in your hand.
Clean the area with 90 percent rubbing alcohol,
(WARNING! EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE! Use in a Well Ventilated area),
and use a soft bristle brush after you remove the old DC Power Jack.
Re-tin the solder terminal area's afterwards.
Be SURE you get a good solder joint. A cold solder joint won't do.
(Nothing like not realizing it's a bad solder joint, until after you have the laptop all the way back together. Gives you a 'warm fuzzy feeling' all over)
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