Having problems with your Proview PL713S 17" Flat Panel LCD Monitor ?

Power Surge damage. Suggestions on which part to replace.

\015 I've a Proview pl713s LCD monitor that has suffered damage from a power surge. I opened the monitor and all the circuit boards look clean (no burns). However, when it's given power, the power light flashes fast and continuously, but the screen stays black (with or without a signal feed). The VGA cable connects directly to the same circuit board as the ribbon cable going to the center of the LCD screen, and this circuit board is also connected to another circuit board that has components similar to those in a PC power supply unit (and to which the power cable connects). From that circuit board, 8 wires (4 connectors) connect to the side of the LCD screen. \015\012The first circuit board has a microcontroller and a has sticker labeling it with 01FM713B J52-001\015\012The second circuit board is stamped by Mirage Electronics Co. and has a sticker listing a few numbers also.\015\012Would the surge damage have stopped at the second circuit board (maybe power is simply not getting to the LCD panel) or could there be damage to the first circuit board and possibly the microcontroler also?\015\012Just wondering what I should try to replace to get it working without buying another monitor. Also, none of the wires that I can see are burnt or melted. If it would help, I can provide pictures of the parts in question.\015

Answers :

I would start looking at the power supply, it's usually a separate board where the a/c line plugs into. In many cases i have seen that the problem you described is from a damaged power supply, sounds like something is shorting causing the power supply to continuously come on and off. I would first check the capictors to see if any of them have blown, usually cylinder looking and sometimes you'll see an X or a K at the top of the cylinder, if it's blown then the top will be bulging out instead of being flat. If all those look good then there is probably a short somewhere else like in one of the transistors, if so you'd be best to just find another power supply board to replace.
Wow i found this post searching for that power-supply board type. Seems this PI-170DTLA is being used in many models, different brands and sizes from 17" up to 22".

- First of all: don't just replace those fried capacitors with a bulge but do yourself a favor and change them all.

- 2nd: These capacitors are so-called Low ESR types. That means they have a specially low inner resistance. You normally can't tell the difference between the cheap normal types and the low-esr types! There is ultra-low-esr, too. Its not necessary here but won't hurt either (if price is ok). Normal types will work for a short time (expect up to 4 month).

- 3rd: All these capacitors we have to change have a specific polarity. Inserted the wrong polarity these capaciors will die shortly if not immediately (sometimes quite audible!)

- 4th: There is a number 105° printed on these capacitors. Make sure your replacement has the same (or higher) number. Lower is bad - this is the maximum temperature in degrees centigrade for this piece.

- 5th: Do not exceed the dimensions of the old parts. A height of 20mm for the group of standing 6 capacitors (plus C217) is OK. C11 and C12 have to be laid sideways if they exceed the height of the old parts.

If that is all clear go and get some parts:
C211, C212, C213, C213 = 680µF 25V 105° (ultra-)low-esr type (Rev A was only 470µF but 680µF is definitely better here!)

C215, C216 = 470µF 25V 105° (ultra-)low-esr type

C217, C11, C12 = 220µF 25V 105° (ultra-)low-esr type

I am from germany and hav found an online shop totally dedicated in selling only low-esr and ultra-low-esr capacitors. I will place a link to their page here but i am sure you will find a shop in the states too.

Ok if you have your replacements and start replacing the capacitors watch out for the stripe on the side of the cylinder. That stripe has a "-" imprinted which marks the negative end of the capacitor (remember: polarity!!!). On the circuit board the negative end is marked, too: on top side (where the big items reside) the placemark for the capacitor is shaded black on the negative end. On bottom side (where the soldering is done) you find a sign like this "-| (-". The rounded side marks the negative end.

If you have to lay down C11 and C12 sideways then first align the polarity and then bend its pins. C11 is best laid down towards C22 (or up if you hold the board to read "MIRAGE") and C12 is best laid down towards C11 (or to the right).

If at hand use a fuse-checker on the 3 fuses (Identify: F203 is one of them right between C11 and C215) . No need to remove them from the board for tests.
If no other piece of the board looks burnt and your work looks good (dont forget to shorten the lenghthy wires of the new capacitors) and you made sure all new capacitors have the right polarity (capacitor-stripe to board-mark or "(" ) then reassemble the monitor and stop when you plugged all wires back to their respective places.

Put power back on to the AC-Socket >>without<< plugging your LCD into anything else (computer, ..), switch it on and if your backlight shines (maybe some message appears) you can relax, turn power off again (unplug ac cord!!!!) and finish assembling.

If anything goes like "zzzzt", "booom" or the led still only blinks around either you have done something wrong or some other part of your ac-board has gone, too.

Phew ... was only up for a brief description but it's gotten more and more

Contact me at "fixya AT geesen DASH home DOT de" if you like and all typos are legally mine. You can copy them if you like :)
Repair Help & Product Troubleshooting for Proview PL713S 17" Flat Panel LCD Monitor

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