Having problems with your Philips 150S4FB 15" LCD Monitor ?

Philips 150S4 15" LCD Monitor Problem

\015 My Monitor is Philips 150S4 15",I using Suddenly it 's source off ,the engine has broken down .I from Vietnam\015

Answers :

If it just fails to turn on, the main power supply is probably at fault and without some\015\012technical background and a couple of test instruments, you will not likely be able to do the repair\015\012yourself. 
\015\012Modern power supplies are designed to shut down if\015\012the current drawn exceeds the design level, which indicates that something the\015\012supply services or the supply itself has died.

\015\012\015\012If you are adventurous, you might pull the plug on the set,\015\012allow the set to sit overnight, gain access to the innards, and with good\015\012light, inspect any boards inside.
\015\012\015\012If you see one that has few ICs but many more larger\015\012discrete parts, this will be the power supply.
\015\012\015\012Again, before touching anything inside, especially on that\015\012board, allow at least several hours to be safe since the larger capacitors can\015\012hold a painful voltage charge for some hours.  
\015\012\015\012You are looking for components called electrolytic\015\012capacitors that are almost always cylindrical and mostly installed upright at\015\01290 degrees to the board with leads passing through to the solder side.
\015\012This same type of component in smaller dimensions\015\012is still used in a horizontal package with leads bent down and passing though\015\012holes to the solder side.
\015\012The latter are becoming more rare since they don't\015\012lend themselves well to robot assembly.
\015\012Many failed caps (not all) will show signs of\015\012pregnancy when they fail, bulging unnaturally at the top when compared with\015\012others. Now and then, there may be traces of a crystalline deposit around the\015\012end where the seal failed from internal\015\012pressure.      
\015\012These will have values listed on them in uFd\015\012& VDC and sometimes, a plus/minus number lying about the precision.
\015\012Some also have a date code (rarer) that will look\015\012like four digits:
\015\0122403 = 24th week of 2003
\015\012Most electronics suppliers have a stock of\015\012the various values but if they have a date code at all, try to get only those\015\012made before 2002 or after 2006.

\015\012\015\012The larger caps will probably be OK since the failure is\015\012likely related to functions other than brute-force filtering. A pretty good\015\012'rule of thumb' is to replace any caps you see bulging of any value but\015\012especially those that are 100 uFd or less.
\015\012\015\012If you see signs of overheating such as discoloration of\015\012the board material, it may not be repairable but if you can find a part number\015\012on the board, you might be able to buy the power supply and install it\015\012yourself.
\015\012\015\012If there are no signs of heat damage to the board, there\015\012may be companies offering to repair it as a subassembly instead of repairing\015\012the whole set which could be much more expensive.
\015\012\015\012If you choose to replace it or have it done, the power\015\012supply still may not be at fault since most\015\012are capable of switching on and off if a downstream problem is causing an\015\012overload.
\015\012\015\012If you choose to replace failed caps yourself, you will\015\012need a quality soldering iron with a small, preferably iron-plated tip, rosin\015\012core solder and a sponge which when wetted is used to frequently wipe oxidized\015\012solder from the tip this should be kept bright and clean and fresh tinning will\015\012keep it that way.
\015\012\015\012You should also buy some solder 'wick' with the iron; this\015\012is used to place on the solder you wish to remove and then heated with the\015\012iron. Properly used, the wick will absorb nearly all of the solder from the\015\012lands from which you wish to remove a component.  
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