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Motherboard TriGem International Imperial GL

\015 I need Motherboard TriGem International Imperial GL diagram\015

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I didn't include the e4allupgraders website, because the link to the Motherboard Manual for the Imperial GL, and GLVE is down.
Forgot they show the default jumper settings. (Good going Pritesh81!)

The CPU fan is running? This means you have connected the Pwr 1 pins.
Good. Did you plug the 4-pin ATX power cable from the power supply, into the motherboard? That's power for Intel Pentium 4 and above processors. Must be plugged in. No power to the processor, No computer. (No computer running, No Signal going to the monitor)

Not trying to slam your eMachines computer, but these are budget computers. Hence they use budget/cheap components.

1.Power supply's are cheaply made.
Wiring used inside is small gauge, and below par.
Electrolytic Capacitors are of low quality.
Rectifier bridge is low quality.
I could go on, and on.

2.Electrolytic Capacitors used on the motherboard are of low quality.

One's that surround the processor are Voltage Regulators. (Tall. Usually 1000uf and higher. {uf = MicroFarad)

Processors must have a clean, steady, supply of DC electricity. They have a Very Small tolerance range! Too little, and BIOS won't turn them on, or keep them running. (Too much, and BIOS turns the processor off. Keeps the processor from burning up)

Capacitors that surround the Expansion slots are Filters. (Expansion slot = PCI, or AGP, or PCI-Express)

Electrolytic Capacitors resemble a small tin can. They have a rubber seal in the bottom, and an X, or lK impression cut on top. Inside the 'can' are three strips.
A. One is a metal strip and is a Conductor
B.One is a metal strip with a Non-conducting coating applied.
C.One is a paper strip impregnated with Electrolytic Paste.

The three strips are laid flat on each other, with the paper strip in the middle. The two leads coming out of the bottom are connected to the Conducting metal strip, and the Non-conducting metal strip.

When an Electrolytic Capacitor starts to fail, the Electrolytic paste inside develops a gas. Hydrogen Gas. This gas expands pushing against the rubber seal, breaching it's sealing capacity. It can also push the X, or lK impression to pop it open. Keeps the capacitor from exploding.

Electrolytic paste starts oozing out. Does it slowly. So much paste loss, and the capacitor can continue to function, but below it's capacitance capability.
Motherboard manufacturer designers know this, and take into consideration that eventually an Electrolytic Capacitor will break down.
The chemicals inside the Electrolytic paste, can only go through a chemical reaction so many times.
For this reason, designers use capacitors that are 50 percent better than needed. They know that Electrolytic Capacitors break down after time.

So much paste loss of the 'Caps' that surround the processor, make the processor 'hiccup'. The processor turns on, then off, then on, and finally may stay on, or shut off.

Finally with enough paste loss, BIOS won't turn the processor on anymore. The voltage isn't within the tolerance range.

Electrolytic Capacitors used in the power supply are Filters. Large 'Caps' filter the incoming AC, and smaller 'Caps' filter the rectified outgoing DC.

These 'Caps' have the greatest tendency to fail. They are the weakest link. Other components inside the SMPS, (Switched Mode Power Supply), also can fail, but 'Caps' are the primary culprit.

Cheap capacitors.


This is NOT an invite to pop your power supply open, and have a look!

Capacitors are designed to hold a charge. They can hold a charge for weeks, sometimes Months, after the capacitor is removed from power!!
(Power supply unplugged from power)

Capacitors are designed to slowly build up a charge, then release it all at once. ZAP!
If your fingers touch the two terminals of a 'Cap', the charge will be released to you!
If your fingers complete a circuit that one, or more 'Caps' are in, the charge can be released to you!

Shock can be Bad to FATAL!

IT IS NOT recommended to have the power supply plugged in, and check the voltages of the power cables. There is NO load to the power supply.
1.The power supply may show correct voltages when checked, but when a load is applied the power supply "Falls on it's face'.
2.No load to a power supply can burn it up.

Suggest using a known, good, Compatible power supply for a test.
If it isn't a Good power supply guess what's going to happen? Bad test results, and you're back to square 1, never knowing that was indeed the problem.

It has to be a compatible power supply. Has to have the right power cables, and enough of them.
Check to be sure the color of the wires going into the 20/24-pin ATX motherboard connector, is the SAME as the old power supply's motherboard connector.

For a time some pre-built computer manufacturers switched these around. 12 volt wires lined up with a Ground wire. POOF! Let's the smoke out!
(Yellow is 12 Volts
Red is 5 Volts
Orange is 3.3 Volts
Green is the Soft Power On wire
Any Black wire is a Ground wire.
That's the Standard)

If you have a weak voltage power rail in a power supply, lights will light, fans may spin, computer doesn't turn on.

1.ALL the lights use less than 1 Watt
2.EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts
3.A typical processor uses 55 to 125 Watts. Depends on the processor.

Not enough power to turn the processor on.

I apologize for the long 'dissertation', but I thought I would direct you to what may be wrong, and an in-depth reason as to why.
Someone states, 'Capacitors are bad', and you may wonder why this is.

TriGem motherboards, and eMachines computers are Known for bad capacitors.
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