Having problems with your Samsung SyncMaster 753S 17" CRT Monitor ?

My Samsung SyncMaster 2463UW no longer auto detects the video input. I normally use it with my MacBook Pro - I turn it on, it detects the digital output and Bob's your uncle. Today, I turned it on and it continues to cycle through analog, digital and HDMI input sources. However, I can actually see the correct output when it switches to ''digital'' mode - it just won't stay there.


Answers :

OK UncleBob...Try this for me..does hitting the menu button on the monitor do anything for you?..NO huh...Do any of the other buttons (besides power) do anything for you?..Probably not?! Your in the early stages of my fixed problem...Is your warranty still good?lol I had to throw that one in....So ....
\015\012Power button is flashing.. input box is floating around and changing input signals...well first
\015\012try another monitor on your computer. The other monitor works huh?!
\015\012
\015\012I just did this to a friends monitor as well as my own, a different model and not much different in build. Some might have 3 screws on the lower back side of the cover. If not then proceed to How to open a Samsung SyncMaster 2053bw.. Start your separation from the bottom of the frame.Your power switch will remain on the front frame while the wire will remain with the rest.
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\015\012HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER2.gif 2053BW

NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable(if you need to remove it), two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel. Unhook the 4 plugs(blues and pinks)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.56ec44b.jpg
aae8fab.jpg\015\012 The capacitors top-plain should be flat(not rounded) and there should be no color whatsoever coming through the top of the cap lines(google "bad capacitors"). The specs of the cap are on the cap. Markings on the cap and board show how it is installed. The 2 caps cost me $4.00. Now keep in mind there are hazards to this.Google them;)
Repair Help & Product Troubleshooting for Samsung SyncMaster 753S 17" CRT Monitor

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