Having problems with your Gateway GT4022 PC Desktop ?

Gateway GT4022 has issues powering up and restarting

\015 I have read about the GT4022 issues. Here is specifically what is happening. Sometimes, the computer won't start when pressing the power button, but holding it down always turns off the power supply and cpu fans, so I believe the power button is ok. Once it is up, it tends to stay up until I issue shutdown or restart command. On a restart, it ALWAYS fails to power back up once windows shuts down. Unplugging the cord from the power supply for 15-20 secs and plugging back in typically causes the computer to power up afterwards in this case.\015\012\015\012I have tried pressing in the heatsinks on the northbridge and southbridge with no effect. Seems like those should be screwed down, instead of being held by springs. I have checked all the power related connections and all seem to be properly seated.\015\012\015\012All software is current and no bios updates were found at the Gateway site.\015\012\015\012I am hoping that the MoBo isn't the culprit, but fear it might be the culprit.\015

Answers :

1.Yes the Power On switch is okay.
(PS. If you hold down the Power On button for 10 seconds on any computer, it will turn off)

2.The heatsink held down by springs on the Northbridge, and Southbridge chipsets, is an excellent idea. Works very well on Processors too.

Why?
My opinion.

1.This means even pressure is being distributed, and in a manner that a user can't cause harm to the chipsets.
Use screws, and you might have someone who puts too much force, while torquing them down.

2.Means to me that the user can remove the heatsink, clean the top of the chipset, and bottom of the heatsink, and apply new thermal paste.

Thermal paste does dry up over time.

[I'm sure you're aware, but please indulge me.
The top of a chipset, or processor case, and the bottom of a heatsink, is not perfectly smooth.

There are microscopic hills, and valleys, and pits.
These cannot be seen by the naked eye.

These voids cause an air pocket. Air is an insulator, not a conductor. You want a conductor to help transfer the heat from the chipset, to the heatsink.

Thermal paste fills these voids, and is an excellent conductor of heat. Helps transfer the heat.

If your Northbridge, and Southbridge chipset have thermal pads, I suggest taking them off, and flying them out the window!
(Look out below!!!!)

Thermal pads do not transfer heat very well]

As for your problem, it's the power supply.
Inside the power supply are Electrolytic Capacitors.

Some are used to filter the incoming AC electricity, Input Stage), and some are used to filter the outgoing DC electricity. (Output Stage)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

Electrolytic Capacitors used in personal computers have a cylindrical aluminum case, with two terminals coming out of the bottom.

The aluminum case resembles an aluminum Coke can, with the bottom cut out.
There is a rubber round plug in the bottom.
The top of the 'can' is flat, and has an X or a lK, cut into it part way.

Inside the 'can' are three thin strips.
1) A Conducting strip of metal

2) A Non-conducting strip. Is made of metal with a non conducting oxide layer. (Insulating oxide layer)

3) A strip of paper soaked in Electrolytic Paste.

The Positive terminal is connected to the Conducting strip, and the Negative terminal is connected to the Insulating strip.
(Metal strip with insulating oxide layer)

Electrolytic Capacitors break down over time. The designer has taken this into effect, and puts in capacitors that are 50% better than required.

Problem is, that a large number of capacitors have a bad Electrolytic Paste formula. This formula was stolen from a large capacitor manufacturer.
Unknowingly the thief stole a bogus formula.

The Electrolytic Capacitor manufacturer caught wind of the approaching theft, and a known bogus formula was substituted for the real one.

The Electrolytic Paste of this bogus formula, develops gas after time. (Hydrogen gas)

This causes one of two things, or both.

A.The gas expands inside the capacitor, and breaches the seal of the capacitor.
(Pops the rubber plug loose at the bottom)

B. The X, or lK shape at the top of the capacitor breaks open. (The shape is etched into the flat top of the capacitor, about halfway)

Electrolytic Paste is slowly pushed out of the capacitor. Either through the break at the top, the rubber seal at the bottom, or both places.

Some paste loss will make the capacitor weak. (Loss of capacitance)
Too much paste loss will make the capacitor fail.

Electrolytic Paste also dries up.

When you have one, or more weak capacitors in a power supply, you have a weak voltage power rail.
When you have one, or more failed capacitors in a power supply, you lose a power voltage rail.

There are three main voltage power rails, in a personal computer power supply.
A) The 3.3 Volt rail
B) The 5 Volt rail
C) The 12 Volt rail

A capacitor builds a charge up slowly, then releases it all at once.
Compare this to a swimming pool that is filled up slowly with a garden hose, then knock a big hole in the side. The water rushes out all at once.

I believe you have a bad power supply. One, or more capacitors are failing. When you unplug, wait 15-20 seconds, then plug back in, you are causing the weak capacitors to get a surge of electricity.

I Do Not advise opening the power supply to take a look!
Electrolytic Capacitors hold a charge for weeks, sometimes months, after being disconnected from power!

(Sometimes up to a year for the big capacitors. Such as the one's used in the Input Stage, of the power supply)

If your fingers make a circuit by touching the two terminals of a capacitor, YOU will receive the charge!

If your fingers touch a circuit, in the circuit board of the power supply, where one, or more capacitors are in, and your fingers complete a circuit, YOU will receive the charge!

This can result in a bad to fatal shock.

An experienced tech, will use the proper method of discharging the capacitors, before working on the power supply. I will not detail it here.

(If someone tells you that you can use a metal screwdriver to do so, this = NO!
The tip of the screwdriver can melt, and turn into hot shrapnel, as the capacitor explodes!)

Seasoned tech's just use a spare power supply, for a test.

Approximately 70 or more percent of the computers that come to my shop have a failing, or failed power supply.

Most are due to the inside of the computer, and the power supply, is dirty.
The owner never took the time, or was afraid to clean the inside of their computer. (And power supply)

All they had to do was unplug the computer from power, open the computer case, touch the metal frame of the computer case to relieve their body of Static electricity, and use a can of compressed air for computers.
That's it!

The rest of the power supply failure, can be attributed to the computer manufacturer. They used cheap quality power supplies, that had cheap quality components inside. (Like Electrolytic Capacitors with the bogus formula, for one)

Saved the computer manufacturer money.

At the outset of this, you better check the Electrolytic Capacitors on your motherboard.

Gateway didn't use solid capacitors, when the FIC KTBC51G motherboards were made.
Gateway used Electrolytic Capacitors.

Visual signs of capacitor failure,

http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm
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