Having problems with your Dell Latitude D600 Notebook ?

I have the dell laptop latitude d-600 power light flashes for a few seconds and then goes off---same problem as 18 other people have listed---any solutions out there

Answers :

Its the error pf the hardware inside and the components are getting short due to short circuit iunteranally.as you on the laptop it start and shows the green led in front but.due to short circuit internally it it cannot complete the circuit and the laptop turnrs off.if any component is faulty and due to that it is getting off.then it will beep but it is not beeping as you stated before.its a  circuit board failure in the laptop.that has to be repaired by a professional to make it proper.as it needs to be checked with multimeter and solder the faulty componenrt with the help of soldering iron.to abvoid further daMAGE DO NOT ON THE LAPTOP TILL IT GET REPAIRED.BECAUSE WHEN EVER YOU ON THE LAPTOP THE CIRCUYIT GETS MORE AND MORE OVERHEATED AND THE FAULT INCREASES IUN THE BOARD.AS per the present situation its worth reparing and the cost will be negligible .and a local computer /laptop repair center can easily repair the board.who is familiar with chip level reparing.get it repaired first then use it.
I have had the same problem with my D600 - it needed to be flexed or\015\012pressed on the back before the power button would start the machine.\015\012This worked for some time, but then did not work any more. I thought\015\012then that I would investigate the actual reason for it, and so\015\012dismantled the machine. The power pressbutton switch is mounted on a\015\012small daughterboard, which in turn is connected to the motherboard via\015\012a multipin connector. I used a good lab microscope to examine the very\015\012small and fine solder joints which connect the line of connector pins\015\012to the motherboard solder pads. I found that many of these solder\015\012joints had developed extermely fine fatigue cracks due to relative\015\012movement developed between the daughterboard and the motherboard, such\015\012that these failty pins were no longer electrically connected to the\015\012motherboard. As the fracture in each case was extremely fine (but\015\012nonetheless completely separated) downwards pressure on either the\015\012power button and /or the back of the case under the connector, would\015\012close together the two halves of each broken solder joint, and thus\015\012re-establish the connections again, hence the machine would restart.\015\012When the pressure is released, the top of each cracked joint would then\015\012spring up a micron or two to re-break each faulty connection. As I\015\012said, I have proved this fault and directly observed the problem in\015\012action, under the microscope.
\015\012Now, as the pitch of the connector pins and the pins themselves are so\015\012tiny, it is not feasible to resolder the joints with normal soldering\015\012gear, which is way too big, meaning that many pins would be soldered\015\012together with a blob, rather than being soldered individually and not\015\012shorting to each other, as we need to do.
\015\012Not having the right type of soldering iron for this task, I actually\015\012made one up using my old Weller iron, using a hand-made tip fashioned\015\012from a 3mm brass screw with the head cut off, and the other end\015\012sharpeded to a very fine (sharp) conical tip. I atteched the brass\015\012screw to my iron tip / barrel with many turns of tinned copper wire,\015\012which I figured would also be a great conucter of the heat from the\015\012normal tip to the very sharp brass tip laced tightly to the side of the\015\012old tip. This worked a treat.
\015\012I need to say that if you are going to try this, you will need to work\015\012under a form of microscope, and you will need to have steady hands so\015\012that you don't burn any other parts, and can resolder each pin\015\012individually, without blobbing across to other pins. I found that using\015\012these tools, it was probably easier that I thought it would be, but you\015\012do have to be very careful and precise. I recommend that you do not use\015\012solder initially, but simply reheat (reflow) each joint while keeping\015\012some pressure on the the other side of the connector body, so that the\015\012joints are tending to close when the solder melts, to ensure each joint\015\012is individually remade OK.
\015\012I found that one of those small metal screwsrivers you can get in a\015\012cheap set (the smallest one in the set), can be sharpened up to a very\015\012fine point, to serve as a very useful "toothpick" probe. This can be\015\012used to gently clear any microscopic debris from beteen the solder\015\012joints so that there are no short circuits. If you happen to solder two\015\012pins tigether accidentally, you can easily clear the solder by\015\012reheating it for a very short time while using the "toothpick" to\015\012separate the molten solder again.
\015\012The probe can also be used under the microscope to gently probe the top\015\012of each joint in turn, to check the quality of your soldering. If the\015\012top part moves, relative to the solder pad, then the joint is still not\015\012OK (is still cracked), and needs more work. In this way, you can\015\012eventually be confident that all joints are solid, and also not\015\012shorting out to each other.
\015\012Remember - use only the minimum heating time for each joint, as you\015\012don't want to damage the motherboard or its solder pads (which might\015\012become unbonded with too much heat).
\015\012So - there you are. I have done it using this method.
\015\012Also, I recommend that you either do this, or get someone to do it for\015\012you, soon after you begin having difficulty with the on/off button, and\015\012you are having to apply pressure to get the machine to start. Why?\015\012Because the pressing fiix, while great, is actually applying more\015\012mechainal force to the connector joints, so that more will crack off.\015\012The danger is that as more and more force is required, all the pins\015\012will crack, and then the top of each joint will move across to short to\015\012the next adjacent joint, which could possibly destroy your motherboard.
\015\012Using this method, I now have resoldered the connector to its original\015\012condition. I have also carefuly adding some hot melt glue to make the\015\012connector body more rigidly connected to the motherboard (I did notice\015\012under the microscope that the connector body can flex quite a bit in\015\012its end mounts). Adding the hot melt prevents this happending, so that\015\012the repaired joints will not be fatigued off in future.
\015\012I hope that this helps all those with the same problem.
\015\012It can be done.
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