Having problems with your Cornea CT 1700 17" Flat Panel LCD Monitor ?

I have a Cornea 1702. It just stopped working altogether. It doesn't even show the menu nor does it search for a signal as it used to while scrolling thru options or select input! I think it's fried, but I remember some time ago i thought it was all done then it started working again. any thoughts?


Answers :

OK, first off, I'd like to say that I've never worked on the Cornea 1702, but most monitors follow similar designs, especially generic brand monitors.

So there are a few things I need to know:
What exactly happens when you press the power button?
Does the power light come on?
Does the screen's backlight come on?
Does the screen just stay black as if its turned off?

OK, so if the power light turns on, but the screen stays black with no backlight, the problem is either the monitor's power board/inverter or the backlight itself.

If the power light turns on and the backlight turns on, but the screen stays white or black, then there is most likely a problem with your monitor's main board or a problem with the connection from your LCD panel to your mainboard.

If the power light never turns on, then most likely you have a bad power board.

In general, I doubt it would be cost efficient to purchase a replacement board if they are defective. It would probably be both easier and cheaper to buy a used monitor on craigslist for $30-$40.

You might be able to fix the power board/inverter or backlight using the following methods, provided that your monitor doesn't use an AC adapter for power:

If you feel adventurous and want to open up the LCD, I'd unplug the monitor. Then be sure\015\012to ground yourself and get rid of static electricity by touching some\015\012metal object near you. Then take apart the monitor.

To\015\012open it up, you need to first remove the stand, then unscrew all screws\015\012on the back, then pry apart the casing at the seam with a small\015\012flat-screwdriver or something like that. That should get you into the\015\012casing, then you just have to look around and see where to go from\015\012there. You may have to remove other covers to get to the powerboard.\015\012Also, I wouldn't touch the cable between the monitor and the main\015\012board, just in case.

You then need to visually inspect the powerboard. Most likely you will need to replace bulging or bad capacitors on the\015\012power board. They will likely have voltages between 16-25V and\015\012capacitances of 470-1000uF. If you notice bad capacitors,\015\012you will need to desolder them from the board and solder on new compatible ones. You can go with higher voltages and capacitance, but nothing lower than whats there already. You can buy capacitors cheap on eBay or pick them up at RadioShack for $1-$3 each. If you see bad capacitors, replacing them should solve the problem.

If the capacitors look fine or replacing them doesn't solve the problem, the problem may\015\012be with your backlights themselves. If you are able to test them, that\015\012would be best. Replacing them is a pain as you will have to disassemble\015\012the LCD panel\015\012itself to get them out. You will then have to replace them with\015\012compatible backlights of the same size, which you can salvage from\015\012similarly sized broken monitors on eBay.

Keep in mind that the suggested actions above are for individuals with some experiences in soldering and repairing circuit boards\015\012or LCDs. Also be sure to wear anti-static gloves or wristband and keep\015\012the monitor unplugged when performing the above stated actions (except\015\012of course when testing voltages).
\015\012\015\012\015\012\011\011
If you're not comfortable doing that, then find someone with experience in fixing or opening electronics and/or PCs. Good luck, hope it works out!
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