Having problems with your Acer AL1713 17" LCD Monitor ?

Power-on LED AL1916 acer LCD screen doesn't work, no display

\015 Hi,\015\012My screen is an Acer AL1916 (not widescreen). It worked fine for a 3 years (just got out of warranty) until now. The power-on LED doesn't turn on anymore and also no backlight, and just a black dead screen. I am sure that the display itself is still ok, meaning that the backlight is still ok, but it is something that has to do with the printed circuit boards. I opened my screen and the following boards are in it:\015\012715L1142-3-AUE (=Power supply board)\015\012715L1144-1-IO (=little board with 1 chip on it, i think it has something to do with turning on backlight but i am not sure)\015\012715L1237-1 (board to connect VGA cable)\015\012I also have disconnected the power supply from the other boards and i measured 2 kinds of voltages : +5V that is stable, but then a voltage that is constantly moving between 10,5 - 11,6V that is not stable. I expect +12V normally there.\015\012I also hear a little 'plopping' sound in my speakers every second.\015\012I have a bachelor degree in electronics, so i know how to solder or replace components on a board.\015\012Does anyone have a schematic of one of these printed circuit boards ?\015\012If so, please send it to [email protected]\015\012If someone has simular problems or even have a possible solution for this problem, do not hesitate to respond ;)\015\012Thanks in advance!\015

Answers :

Hi - I've just fixed ny AL1921 which would be similar to yours internally. There are a couple of issues which are common:

Bad soldering around some of the copper coils (insulation may not have been properly stripped and leads to intermittent connection and (much more likely)

Blown electrolytics.

If you have ANY electrolytics on the main board which are swollen at the top or have electrolyte oozing out of them at the top or where they meet the board, then replace them.

My ACER started flickering and switching off randomly (no power light on the front either) and I though the power supply inside was toast. However, I found two electrolytics on the large power board (1000u / 16v) which had a black crust at the top. I replaced these and the monitor sprang back into life. Try to use replacements which have a temperature rating of 105 degrees C. Basically I think these things give out just after the guarantee runs out.

Hope that works for you.
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